Which Is Best For You?

How to determine which skeg (wear rod) will work best for you…

Which carbide is best for you.

I do not look at longer carbide as a means to go faster. I look at it as a means to avoid oncoming objects, whether it's a sled on your side of the trail or a tree. 8" will change the direction of a sled sooner, than a 6". This is true only if shims are installed.

Mass + Velocity = Momentum

Most of us don’t want to spend anymore than we have to, to have fun, but we will spend what it takes!

Be sure to read all the RED information

Today's rider forward sleds put more weight on the skis, this is especially true for 4-stroke sleds. Longer tracks, taller lugs, and riding 2-up also add to momentum, as they push the sled straight ahead.

For safety reasons 6" turning carbides should be the minimum length, for these sleds. I know OEM's put on 3 to 4 inches of turning carbides on stock, but that is not enough bite to help in hairy situations. Every season more and more snowmobilers are riding 8" carbides on 144" and longer tracks without studs.

Non-Studded Track

121” shorter than 1” lugs –
4” carbides
OR– 6” Triple Points - with 3/8" Ski Savers will keep you safer.

121” – 1” to 11/4” lugs –
6” carbides
OR - 6” Triple Points
OR- 8” Triple Points if you weigh over 200 lbs and like to fly by the seat of your pants.

133” – shorter than 1” lugs –
6” carbides

133”- 1” to 1 ¼” lugs -
6” carbides if you weigh under 200 lbs and like to ride hard at times.
OR– 6” Triple Points
OR– 8” Triple Points if you weigh over 200 lbs and like to fly by the seat of your pants.

136” – shorter than 1” lugs –
6” carbides or – 6” Triple Points if you weigh under 200 lbs

136” – 1” to 1 ¼” lugs –
6” carbides if you weigh under 200 lbs and like to ride hard at times.
OR– 6” Triple Points for touring if you weigh under 200 lbs and like to ride hard at times.
OR– 8” Triple Points if you weigh over 200 lbs and like to fly by the seat of your pants.

144” – 156” –
8” carbides if only occasional trail riding
OR – 8” Triple Points if significant trail riding

These longer tracks depend on the riders shifting their weight over the track to turn the sled!!!

Riders experience: A 235 lb. customer chose to go with the TP6 because he wasn't aggressive enough to need the TP8. He called me mid-season to order the TP8. The reason for the upgrade was a sled came around the corner on his side of the trail. As he was cranking the handlebars to get out of the way, he recalled that I mentioned the TP8 would keep him safer in a close call situation. The reason he bumped up to the TP8 was he never wanted to be that close to another out of control sled again.

Keep in mind, if you only ride fast on open fields, lakes and trainbeds, where the field of vision is good, you can use a shorter carbide because you have more time to react. If you want to drive through the tight twisties the longer carbide would be safer.

If you are riding at 60-80 mph the longer the carbide the sooner you can change the direction of the sled. This is an important consideration because TREES ALWAYS WIN!!!

If you weigh 230lbs or more – go to the 8" Triple Point right away.

Why The Fastest Sled Does Not Always Win!

Studded Tracks

Mass + Velocity = Momentum

Full Track Pattern

Studs push the sled straight, so you must have enough carbide up front to overcome that push to turn! Studs in the outside bands will hold the sled tighter in the turns than the center only patterns but you have to lean harder into the turns.

If you put studs in the outside bands I suggest you place them in the center of the narrow bands with only a ¼” stickout. That way they will dig one scratchline when accelerating or braking. Combine that with the shorter stickout and the studs will put less stress on the track cords. When you are in a turn they will each create their own scratchline. Stud Installation History

If you have 96 studs, or less, in the track 4” carbides or 6” Triple Points with 3/8" Ski Savers keep you safer.

If you were to use the 6” carbide with 96 studs, the track would tend to break loose in the corners. If your tail end isn’t breaking loose, you are not going as fast around the corners as 6” carbides are capable of.

If you were to use the 8” carbide with only 96 studs and take a corner as fast as a 8” carbide can, your tail end could pass you several times.

The 6” carbides and 6” Triple Points will work with 144 studs. If you sit down taking corners the 6” carbides will work fine. If you hang off the handlebars in the corners, use the 6” Triple Points.

If you use 192 studs the 8” carbides would be fine. The 8” Triple Points would be better and have been used with up to 288 studs.

Center Only Pattern

Mass + Velocity = Momentum

Studs in the center only push the sled straight so you will need longer turning carbide for the same number of studs.

96 studs in the center work fine with 6” carbides if you weigh under 200 lbs and like to ride hard at times. 6” Triple Point would be the choice if you weigh over 200 lbs.

144 - 162 studs in the center only can use 8” carbides if you weigh under 200 lbs and like to ride hard at times, or 8” Triple Points if you weigh over 200 lbs and like to fly by the seat of your pants.

Other Carbide Information

If you are going into a left turn, leaning into the turn increases pressure on the left sliderails. Having studs in the left outside band holds the sled tighter in the corner, than if the studs were only in the center.

Longer carbide does not translate into durability, unless you are only riding on bare pavement.
A 4” and a 10” carbide will dull at the same time because pavement takes an even cut whole length of the carbide so overkill does not pay. A sharp 4” will turn better on ice than a dull 10”.

If you have been satisfied riding with shorter carbides, than I suggest, you can still use the shorter length. Because TREES ALWAYS WIN! I want to make sure you can avoid them in hairy situations. If you don’t ride hard enough to get into hairy situations the less aggressive carbide is fine. There are no absolutes because of all the variables!