Sled Set Up Made Simple
The most aggressive rider I know rides a 2002, Arctic Cat, ZR 800,
1100cc with Nitrus, 240 studs, 24" Triple Point Carbides, 1/4" Ski
Savers, shims and factory skis. He rides in Northern WI and the UP of
MI. When I asked him what adjustment he made to his sleds, to my
surprise he said NONE. Lucky guy, the sleds come set-up for his weight.
He did say if he weighed 250 pounds he would only stiffen the rear spring
to the stiff position. If he weighed 135 pounds, he would only soften the
rear spring to the soft position.
Before you make any changes write down how everything is set from the
factory. Today's sleds allow for many adjustments unlike older sleds
that only had three, but it still comes down to maximizing the
function of the skis / carbides, skid frame and track.
only adjusts one thing - on twisty trails he sucks up the front
limiter straps a 1/2"to 3/4".
On lakes he has the front limiter straps loose. ONE SET-UP WILL NOT
WORK WELL FOR BOTH TERRAINS
turn better the more the limiter straps are sucked up, but it does
increase the effort needed to turn the handlebars. You will have to
decide how hard you want to work.
trail riders, front spring collars can be loosened only until the
front end starts to drop, this will improve ride comfort in stutter
Front shocks do not affect ski pressure! - a 17" shock is always 17".
Do Not adjust scissor arms! - back hole gives you a hard ride
- front hole will not let you turn under acceleration.
There are several reasons why I listen to this life long snowmobiler.
First, his father is one of our first testers. Second, he and his father
have been racing snowmobiles and cars for as long as I have known them.
Third, they have a 1995 Arctic Cat that weighs 550 pounds and has done 144
mph in 1,000 feet. They could not keep it on the ground if they made it
lighter. Fourth, one of their other sleds has gone over 149 mph in 1,000
feet. It's obvious - THESE GUYS KNOW SLEDS FROM THE GROUND UP!!!